The Cup of Chai and the Conversations!
Waiting at Jogi Mahal, in Zone 3, the anticipation was palpable as the gates were about to open. The guides debated where the tiger might appear and whether Ridhi, the dominant tigress of the area, would show up with her new cubs. My regular guide, Mr. Kailash, a former school teacher, excitedly planned our next moves. His driver, Adarsh, had his own thoughts, as both tried to predict the tiger’s movements—a discussion that might seem trivial to some, but for wildlife enthusiasts, it was captivating. Just then, a guard approached, curious about our conversation and eager to share a story from the previous day, involving a prominent photographer’s altercation at the gate. The guard, uninterested in our strategic discussions, focused on the photographer’s audacity. As he finished his tale, it was time to enter the park.
Almost immediately, we spotted T-124, known as Ridhi, as she entered Jhalra, then a non-tourism part of Zone 2. Marking her territory, she had left her cubs in an undisclosed location. Our guides’ predictions had partially come true. We waited patiently for alarm calls—the cries of langurs or the shrill calls of spotted deer. Salman, a seasoned naturalist and driver, suggested she might emerge from the hilltop, while Farhan, another experienced guide, predicted she would walk by the lakes. Our guide, Kailash, listened quietly, keeping his judgment to himself, and directed Adarsh to move forward, remaining uncertain. We settled by Rajbagh, anxiously waiting for news of her movement as the jeeps scattered across the park.
Curiosity prompted me to continually ask Kailash to inquire with passing vehicles if they had seen anything. Maintaining his composure, Kailash asked Dinesh in a nearby jeep. Dinesh, in high spirits because his guests had seen the tiger and anticipating a generous tip, humorously remarked, “Today is peculiar—the teacher is asking the student about the subject.” This lightened the tense morning as birds began chirping and the langurs’ calls resumed. Seeing Dinesh and Kailash together attracted other vehicles, hoping they had spotted the tiger again. Salman returned from the hilltop empty-handed, and Farhan also had no luck. The four jeeps gathered at Rajbagh, and what happened next was unexpected.
The coffee and tea flasks were opened, and the aroma of Hotel Regency’s renowned tea wafted through the air. We offered tea to nearby jeeps, knowing it’s hard to refuse such an invitation early in the morning. Kailash began pouring tea, recounting the earlier incident the guard had with the photographer. This small tiff quickly became a regional talking point. Some guides labeled the photographer ‘Manhus,’ believing his presence brought bad luck. This nickname spread, with guides translating the gossip for their clueless guests.
Intrigued, I asked Kailash about the incident. Hearing the tale, I felt that the photographer should indeed be reprimanded, a snap judgment I made without deeper reflection. But who am I to judge? I was there to enjoy the jungle, to observe the tigers, and soak in the blissful environment. However, with time to kill and the queen yet to appear, my mind wandered. Sadly, the talented photographer is still called ‘Manhus,’ a testament to how quickly labels can stick.
On a lighter note, Kailash began sharing the various nicknames of the guides, from Sher Khan to Peacock’s Call (DeeVoo). When Salman arrived, I mistakenly shouted “SHER KHAN,” surprising him. He must have wondered how I knew the nickname, but that story is for another time. Just then, Ridhi emerged at Rajbagh lake, yawning as she came out of the dense foliage. She had been there all along, unnoticed. She licked her paw and walked towards the lake for a drink. I readied my camera—ISO set to auto, shutter speed at 1/800th of a second, and exposure one stop under. It was the perfect moment to capture her.
This is one such memoir; the jungle has its own stories. Some are forgotten, some linger, and some remain timeless. These experiences form bonds—strong ones that feel like long-standing friendships, fragile ones that seem opportunistic, and stable ones that withstand any gossip. The conversations, the light-hearted jokes, the thrill of spotting a predator, the serenity of observing herbivores, and the excitement of capturing the perfect shot make the jungle the most rejuvenating place for me.
